Naples is a funny old place. It sits on one of the most beautiful bays in the world and has a history going back to Roman times, and beyond to the Greeks. Tourists pour into one side of the city to visit Pompeii, Sorrento and the Amalfi coast. But very few venture the other side, even … Continue reading The elusive villa of Pausilypon near Naples
Italian food is always astonishing and Verona, if I'm honest, has some of the best you'll find. Over five days we never ate a bad meal, something that's very easy to do in Venice, and even in Rome if you pick badly. So just for the record (and when I next go back) let me … Continue reading Eating well in Verona
If you mention the word 'carnival' in the Veneto people will immediately think you're talking about Venice. I've done Venice carnival. I had to when I was writing Carnival for the Dead. Much as I love Venice I won't be doing carnival again. All the locals I know avoid the thing if they can. It's certainly spectacular but it's primarily an event for tourists, many of them dressed to the nines.
I've been heading off to Venice for around twenty years now, as a visitor to begin with, now mostly for work. Either research or ideas or to finish off a book in the quiet of the little apartment of Dorsoduro I've rented off and on for the best part of a decade. There's nowhere else … Continue reading The tragedy of Venice in a single shop